{"id":37215,"date":"2020-09-10T21:03:27","date_gmt":"2020-09-11T01:03:27","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/gentologie.com\/?p=37215"},"modified":"2026-03-09T16:10:54","modified_gmt":"2026-03-09T20:10:54","slug":"drink-local","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/gentologie.com\/en\/fine-dining\/drink-local\/","title":{"rendered":"Drink Local: An Expression Hard To Define"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

While we increasingly wish to contribute to the homegrown economy by supporting local wine and alcohol producers, one question remains in my mind when I believe of all these people who want to encourage us to drink locally: But what does \u201cDrink Local\u201d mean in the end?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

To help us better understand and sort out all of this, here is what some experts think of the issue.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

On the menu: sommeliers Jessica Harnois<\/a>s and Gabrielle Boland, who officiate at Jellyfish Crudo + Charbon<\/a>, wine columnist Ronald Georges<\/a>, Charles Boissonneau, partner of the Menaud Distillery<\/a>, as well as Maximiliano Vall\u00e9e-Valletta<\/a> general manager of the spirits group behind the Rum Sainte-Marie, Portage gin, White Keys Vodka and Les \u00celes aperitif<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Drink Local: A reflexion before the questions<\/h2>\n\n\n
\n
\"Wines-Southbrook\"
The Wines of Southbrook<\/a> in the Niagara Valley
Photo: Normand Boulanger for Gentologie<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

\u00a0This issue requires thought, as much for the drink as for the food, however, let\u2019s now look at the different alcoholic beverages. This question came to me a long time ago, but it\u2019s the right timing to write about it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Let me explain. In the early 2000s, during a visit to Ontario, I noticed that Ontario wines were straight on the doorstep, showing their pride. When I returned to Quebec, I wondered why this wasn\u2019t the case for an Ontario wine (note that Quebec wines at that moment weren\u2019t what they\u2019re today), which is for me, a local product, a Canadian product, which encourages the economy of the country.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

So the big question: Is a product that comes from another province considered a local product, or does the local really reside for products from one province. It seems simple to answer this question at first glance, but for a person who lives in Montr\u00e9al for example, the gin of the Soci\u00e9t\u00e9 Secr\u00e8te, located in Gasp\u00e9sie, is in many kilometers, much further than those from Tawse or Dillon\u2019s (990 km vs 650 km), situated in the Niagara Valley, Ontario.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

What is a local alcool?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

I imagine that majority would say that local alcohol is produced in Quebec, but it\u2019s nowhere near that simple. As the majority of alcohols have, in their composition, a NGS (Neutral grain spirit)) from Ontario. Some people may fall out of their chairs reading this. And I ask you the question again: what is \u00abDrink Local\u00bb for you? Does the alcohol still stay local at this point?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The new SAQ Classification<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Let\u2019s take a look at the new SAQ classification for Quebec products. It\u2019s even difficult to navigate. \u201cOrigine Qu\u00e9bec\u201d products represent, according to the SAQ, proudly crafted by local artisans with homegrown ingredients.. But we find orange in some products\u2026 But there is also \u201cMade in Quebec,\u201d which is summed up, again according to the SAQ, in a product Proudly developed or distilled by passionate locals, with ingredients from here and elsewhere. So in theory the orange used in the products above means that those products should end up here, right. And for the third category, it is \u201cBottled in Quebec.\u201d I have a hard time grasping the local side in it, even if it helps the economy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The point of view of experts of the wines and spirits industry<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

In order to get a better idea, I asked some professionals in the field of wines & spirits to help me better understand, and also to get their opinion on whether it\u2019s clearer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The opinion of Ronald Georges, wine columnist<\/h2>\n\n\n
\n
\"Ronald-Georges-wine
Ronald Georges
Photo: Fran\u00e7ois Couture<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Let’s start with Mr. Ronald Georges, author of “Rouge sur blanc, \u00e0 la d\u00e9couverte des vins et spiritueux du Qu\u00e9bec<\/a>“, for whom the expression \u201cDrink Local\u201d concerns Quebec only. He tells us that the Quebec terroir is certainly distinct, otherwise the same grape would be planted in Canada, while Gamay and Cabernet Franc are abundant in Ontario, and the very acidic varieties used in sparkling wine are popular in Nova Scotia, for example<\/p>\n\n\n\n

According to him: \u201cthe terroir is also the identity, the know-how, the personality of the winemaker. He believes that a Quebecer doesn\u2019t have the identical culture as a British Columbian. \u201d He adds, \u201cYes, Ontario\u2019s vineyards are closer to southern Quebec, but the history of this terroir is very different from that of Quebec. And the language remains a strong identity anchor. He concludes by telling us that if we drink Canadian wine (i.e., from the rest of Canada i.e., from Ontario, British Columbia and Nova Scotia), why not use the expression \u201cDrink National \u201d in this case? \u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jessica Harnois, Ms. # Drink Local<\/h2>\n\n\n
\n
\"Jessica-Harnois-Sommelier
Jessica Harnois
Photo: Julie Perreault,
Les \u00c9ditions La Presse<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Continuing with Ms. Jessica Harnois, the latter frequently uses the hashtag #boirelocal (#drinklocal in English), which is also the title of her most recent book<\/a>.For her, the expression means discovering the wines, beers and spirits of Quebec in harmony with fine products such as our cheeses, jams and sausages. In short: drink our products which are made here at Quebec!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For Ms. Harnois, \u201cBoire Local\u201d Canada is also applicable. \u201cWe like bubbles from the east like Benjamin Bridge in Nova Scotia, ros\u00e9s from Quebec, Chardonnay, Pinot and ice wine from Ontario, rye from Saskatchewan and Bordeaux-style reds from British Columbia not to mention the delicious microbrewery beers and all the other spirits across the country winning international awards. \u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For her, it\u2019s important to add the notion of National or Provincial \u201cDrink Local \u201d according to our definition. We already feel a trend between our two authors. It remains to be seen if this continues.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Gabrielle Boland, Drink local for the environment<\/h2>\n\n\n
\n
\"Gabrielle-Boland-sommelier-Jellyfish\"
Gabrielle Boland
Photo: Emmanuelle Boland<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Still in the wine world, I asked for the opinion of a second sommelier, Ms. Gabrielle Boland, for whom the word local has several definitions: for her, it\u2019s above all: \u201can environmental choice to reduce the footprint ecological by limiting transport, but it goes beyond the number of kilometers traveled\u2026 It\u2019s a place, but it\u2019s also the support of the economy and our local producers. \u201cWe\u2019re already elsewhere in the latter\u2019s concerns, the aspect of preserving our ecosystem is very present in its interpretation, which we didn\u2019t find in our two authors.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For Ms. Boland, \u201cDrink Local\u201d means drinking Quebec. \u201cEven if Quebec alone, and especially when it comes to wine, offers a fairly limited selection \u2026 it has its own identity that is distinct from that of other Canadian provinces. Our climate, our cultural background is different and the products that emerge from it are different. \u201cDrink Local\u201d in California is drinking Californian wines, not American or Oregon; in Alsace, it\u2019s drinking Alsatian wines. \u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For her, who is a sommelier in a high-end restaurant in Montr\u00e9al, \u201cIt goes without saying that it\u2019s an added value to offer on a menu or a menu products from other Canadian provinces, and it\u2019s in a way an extension to the local Quebec side. We may even force the amplitude of the notion of \u201clocal\u201d to better meet the needs of our customers. If we add the food portion, when it comes to local products, we\u2019re talking about Quebec products. \u201c<\/p>\n\n\n\n

What about specialists in the world of spirits?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

For Charles Boissonneau, Drink Local is a word to avoid<\/h2>\n\n\n
\n
\"Charles-Boissonneau-of-Menaud\"
Charles Boissonneau
Photo: Menaud<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

In the opinion of Charles Boissonneau of Menaud, whom we told you about in the magazine\u2019s Spring edition, drinking local is very subjective. \u201cNormally, I even avoid using that word because it\u2019s too broad and it\u2019s used too often. I even recently saw a brand of spirits say to encourage local buying, specifying that they buy their ingredients locally (across Canada\u2026). \u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For Mr. Boissonneau, my notion of distance, named above, appears to be an erroneous way of perceiving the local character of a product. \u201cIt\u2019s above all the territory that dictates its locality. To drink locally is to drink a product wholly or mainly produced in its territory, with resources coming, as much as possible, from this territory as well. This is the grassroots to encourage businesses and artisans here. \u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

He adds, \u201cThat being said, even the question of territory remains subjective. If I take the example of us, at Menaud, our territory is, first of all, Charlevoix, then Quebec. \u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For Maximiliano Vall\u00e9e-Valletta, it’s craft before everything<\/h2>\n\n\n
\n
\"Maximiliano-Vallee-Valletta-Les-Iles-Aperitif-Drink
Maximiliano Vall\u00e9e-Valletta
Photo: Simon \u00ab Ronny \u00bb Lebrun<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Let\u2019s finish with Mr. Maximiliano Vall\u00e9e-Valletta who tells us that he associates \u201cLocal Drinking\u201d a lot with tasting the artisanal product and the work done behind a spirit, a wine, a beer. \u201cI pay a lot more attention to the process and the know-how behind the development of the product itself, versus the raw materials used, for example. Although I now represent my own brands, I have always had this vision. It\u2019s very cool to use our Quebec ingredients, but what I find even cooler is the story and the vision of the person who implemented the product, because in the end, it\u2019s him (it) the starting point which represents the craftsmanship and the work inside each bottle and which drives the so-called local economy. \u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I added following these comments if Drink Local only applies to Quebec? \u201cFor me, yes and no. It\u2019s obvious that at the first level, local drinking applies to our beautiful province which is full of excellent products, especially since each Quebec bottle that I consume, I have a sense of pride to support HERE. \u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But he adds, \u201cOn the other hand, every region of the world has its own \u2018local drink\u2019 and I think it\u2019s easy to relate to that. I have been fortunate enough to travel a lot over the past few years and have brought back sensational bottles on each of my journeys. Often the first thing you say when describing your new find to a friend is the local know-how with the manufacturing method or the Cellar Master who was inspiring or even the local ingredient that gives it its particularity. So when I open a bottle of grappa or amaro, I still have the impression of drinking local but Italian-style knowing that I have a memory of this place, this distillery, the vineyard or the brewery in particular. \u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I added my question about the distance, like the other participants. And Mr. Vall\u00e9e Valletta to answer me: \u201cPersonally I believe that yes, at a certain level, because for me, it\u2019s to recognize all the work behind the product as I mentioned it above knowing that Quebec is a soil different from the \u2019Ontario or British Columbia. We\u2019re much more engaging than the last two regions to be sure, but it\u2019s often Canadian know-how that is showcased internationally while boosting the country\u2019s economy. It\u2019s all about scale, in my opinion. \u201c<\/p>\n\n\n\n

While all opinions seem to point to the fact that the notion of \u201cDrink local\u201d finds a different meaning according to each region or province, it is, in my opinion, just as interesting to taste products from elsewhere in order to discover, compare and evaluate these. On the economic side, we must not forget that our wine and spirits agencies, our restaurants and therefore the SAQ, offer and live from the sale of products from all over the planet, and that it would be financially impossible to perform a solely local choice, for the good of all.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

So, in closing, discover products from here and elsewhere while remaining aware of the decisions you make.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Originally published in Gentologie Magazine Issue 5<\/a> and offered free of charge<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Defining \u201cDrink Local\u201d, more difficult than it seems. Here is the opinion of 5 wine and spirits experts on the subject.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":37231,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"apple_news_api_created_at":"","apple_news_api_id":"","apple_news_api_modified_at":"","apple_news_api_revision":"","apple_news_api_share_url":"","apple_news_cover_media_provider":"image","apple_news_coverimage":0,"apple_news_coverimage_caption":"","apple_news_cover_video_id":0,"apple_news_cover_video_url":"","apple_news_cover_embedwebvideo_url":"","apple_news_is_hidden":"","apple_news_is_paid":"","apple_news_is_preview":"","apple_news_is_sponsored":"","apple_news_maturity_rating":"","apple_news_metadata":"\"\"","apple_news_pullquote":"","apple_news_pullquote_position":"middle","apple_news_slug":"","apple_news_sections":["https:\/\/news-api.apple.com\/sections\/f8fa0cd9-384d-4da5-ac33-6dba082ff809"],"apple_news_suppress_video_url":false,"apple_news_use_image_component":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[1521,11514,2986,11276],"tags":[3424,7239,8101,8100,3816],"coauthors":[5548],"class_list":["post-37215","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fine-dining","category-issue-5","category-magazines","category-vins-et-spiritueux","tag-jessica-harnois","tag-menaud","tag-menaud-gin","tag-menaud-vodka","tag-sainte-marie-rum"],"apple_news_notices":[],"yoast_head":"\nDrink Local: An Expression Hard To Define | Gentologie<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Defining \u201cDrink Local\u201d, more difficult than it seems. 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