{"id":51849,"date":"2023-12-07T14:37:52","date_gmt":"2023-12-07T19:37:52","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/gentologie.com\/?p=51849"},"modified":"2026-03-16T22:22:51","modified_gmt":"2026-03-17T02:22:51","slug":"the-tuxedo-gentleman-essential","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/gentologie.com\/en\/style\/the-tuxedo-gentleman-essential\/","title":{"rendered":"The Tuxedo: A Gentleman’s Complete Guide"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

If you\u2019ve always wanted to know what you need to know when shopping for a tuxedo (also known as a dinner jacket), Gentologie is here, along with Jean-Michel Bonin from the Clusier boutique, to help you look as stylish as James Bond when he dons his favourite gear at your next evening or ball.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

 <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Table of contents<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \n
  1. The origin of the name Tuxedo<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
  2. The different criteria for choosing the right tuxedo<\/a>\n
      \n
    1. The choice: Trust the evening and your intuition<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
    2. Renting or buying your tuxedo?<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
    3. The difference between hight-end and entry-level products<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
    4. To dare or not to dare<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
    5. Fit or not?<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<\/li>\n\n\n\n
    6. Tuxedo essentials: the accessories (shirt, bow tie, suspenders, etc.)<\/a>\n
        \n
      1. Shirt, the front pivotal element<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
      2. Shirt sleeves – an important detail<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
      3. What to choose from the little extras?<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
      4. For trousers, suspenders or cummerbund?<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
      5. Bow tie, the masterpiece of the tuxedo look<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
      6. Shoes, the final piece of the tuxedo puzzle<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

         <\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

        The origin of the name Tuxedo<\/h2>\n\n\n
        \n
        \"Daniel
        Daniel Craig in the role of James Bond in a Tom Ford tuxedo
        Photo : \u00a9 2021 DANJAQ, LLC et MGM. All rights reserved.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

        According to Wikipedia<\/a>, Tuxedo in the context of menswear originated in the United States around 1888. It was named after Tuxedo Park, a Hudson Valley enclave for New York\u2019s social elite where it was often seen in its early years. The term was capitalized until the 1930s and traditionally referred only to a white jacket. When the jacket was later paired with its own unique trousers and accessories in the 1900s, the term began to be associated with the entire suit. Sometimes it is shortened to \u201ctux\u201d or dinner jacket as the British commonly said.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

        In French, Italian, Portuguese, German, Polish, Russian, Spanish, Persian, Turkish, and other European languages the style is referred to with the pseudo-anglicism smoking (esmoquin). This generic colloquialism is a false friend deriving from its similarity with the 19th-century smoking jacket. In French the dress code may also be called \u201ccravate noire\u201d, a term that is sometimes adopted directly into English as \u201cblack tie\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

         <\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

        The different criteria for choosing the right tuxedo<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

         <\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

        The choice: Trust the evening and your intuition<\/p>\n\n\n

        \n
        \"A
        A magnificent smoking with an ETON shirt and bow tie
        Photo: ETON<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

        Mr. Bonin\u2019s first piece of advice is to find out about the nature of the event. \u201cIs it a Black Tie or White Tie soir\u00e9e or something else? But when it comes to evening wear, tuxedo is really the way to go,\u201d he explains. He also suggests that the choice of colours depends on the time of year: burgundy or dark green, and velvet in autumn and winter. For spring or summer, why not go for lighter fabrics, but most people will go for black or dark blue, even in the warmer seasons. Mr. Bonin points out that there are also floral patterns which, while not dazzling, can be very good for certain events.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

        With so many options, it can be hard to get lost. Mr. Bonin reminds us to choose an outfit we\u2019ll feel comfortable in, as it can be confusing trying on a dinner jacket for the first time. You can, of course, opt for the classic white shirt (I love ETON<\/a>, who makes some superb ones), black trousers with silk braiding and a black jacket. Otherwise, the owner of Clusier advises us to opt for tones that will suit you rather than going for what might be trendy, so we at Gentologie think it\u2019s best to avoid those with logos that are too obvious. Don\u2019t forget black shoes, the moccasin can also be elegant, depending on the occasion, of course.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

         <\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

        Renting or buying your tuxedo?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

        Many men prefer to rent their tuxedo because the cost may seem lower at first. We\u2019re talking less than $500 to rent the complete ensemble, while a made-to-measure\/semi-suited tuxedo starts at around $2,000. If you wear your outfit four times over the next 10 years (the estimated time a tuxedo will last), you\u2019ll get your money\u2019s worth, but that\u2019s just the first point. The second point Mr. Bonin made to me is fit. Sometimes, a rental tuxedo won\u2019t be perfect for you, it won’t be right for your figure. Also, if you have your own tuxedo, you won\u2019t be in the running for last-minute invitations\u2014you\u2019ll say yes to every event! And as a bonus, you\u2019ll look magnificent.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

         <\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

        The difference between hight-end and entry-level products<\/h3>\n\n\n
        \n
        \"Daniel
        Daniel Craig in a Tom Ford tuxedo
        Photo: OMEGA<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

        If you compare a Tom Ford (above) or a Canali with a Samuelsohn or Luigi Bianchi (editor\u2019s note: as I own them), the difference, says Mr. Bonin, is often in the fabric, the tailoring, the personalization and the fit. Allow a few weeks for delivery of your made-to-measure dinner jacket, so plan ahead. Always go with your budget and your needs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

         <\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

         <\/p>\n\n\n\n

        To dare or not to dare<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

        Following the established rules of the tuxedo rather than breaking with convention is a rule that dominates at Clusier. Often, the style can easily be less tasteful.
         <\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

         <\/p>\n\n\n\n

        Fit or not?<\/b><\/h3>\n\n\n
        \n
        \"Tuxedo---LBM---Dark-blue\"
        A Luigi Bianchi Mantova tuxedo in dark blue
        Photo: Luigi Bianchi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

        Although we live in a time when many items of clothing are worn very tightly, tuxedo trousers should not be too tight. They should fall nicely over your shoes. Tuxedo trousers are also worn a little longer and the waist is often higher. Also, if you want the perfect style, don\u2019t forget the braces or the cummerbund (not both), as the tuxedo trousers didn\u2019t have any belt loops. Bear in mind that the braces often ride up the trousers, and this can be uncomfortable for some. What\u2019s more, Bonin reminds us that a looser-fitting garment tends to wear less prematurely. This is good advice for all your future clothing purchases.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

        In a tuxedo, there must be a certain construction at the shoulders, says Bonin, \u201cA tuxedo with a dropped shoulder is not the right style of garment. There are 3 types of lapel: the shawl lapel, the peak lapel and the notch lapel, which sometimes looks older.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

         <\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

         <\/p>\n\n\n\n

        Tuxedo essentials: the accessories (shirt, bow tie, suspenders, etc.)<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

         <\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

        Shirt, the front pivotal element<\/h3>\n\n\n
        \n
        \"An
        An ETON tuxedo shirt bib
        Photo: ETON<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

         <\/p>\n\n\n\n

        When it comes to choosing a shirt, it is important to take a look at the collar. You have many options. The wing collar or butterfly collar is more of a \u201cwhite tie\u201d style, which is a dressier grade than a \u201cblack tie\u201d evening. The addition of shirts with bibs (not to be worn outside a tuxedo), belts and butterfly collars has become less fashionable in recent years, as modern styles have taken over. Mr Bonin also points out that there are several shirts where the buttons are not visible, known as \u201cfly fronts\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

         <\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

        Shirt sleeves – an important detail<\/h3>\n\n\n
        \n
        \"Mastering
        Mastering the shirt sleeves is essential for a great tuxedo look
        Photo: ETON<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

        The tuxedo\u2019s ally is the shirt with cufflinks, at all times,\u201d reminds the owner of Clusier. The shirt should extend about half an inch beyond the jacket sleeve. It\u2019s also a good idea to try on your tuxedo with your cuff-link shirt (and your watch), to measure the width of the sleeve and check whether it can accommodate the shirt cuff, because shirt cuffs are often wider.
         <\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

        What to choose from the little extras?<\/h3>\n\n\n
        \n
        \"The
        The pocket square is an essential to compte the tuxedo perfect look
        Photo : Samuelsohn<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

        Do you go for the pocket square or the flower? And what colour? For Mr. Bonin the flower is at its best when worn at wedding ceremonies, while for the classic, the square or pointed white pocket square will be the perfect complement to your outfit.
         <\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

        For trousers, suspenders or cummerbund?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

         <\/p>\n\n\n\n

        A little clarification, as we said earlier, but if you decide to go for the cummerbund, it is this piece only, not the suspenders, which is very important, otherwise you will be uncomfortable and ugly. It is a choice you have to make.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

         <\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

         <\/p>\n\n\n\n

        Bow tie, the masterpiece of the tuxedo<\/h3>\n\n\n
        \n
        \"Bow
        Bow tie, the perfect ally of the tuxedo
        Photo: ETON<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

        Gentologie recommends a hand-tied bow tie rather than a pre-tied one, but I’ll come back to that in another article.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

         <\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

        Shoes, the final piece of the puzzle<\/h3>\n\n\n
        \n
        \"Shoes-Highbury-by-Crockett-and-Jones\"
        Highbury shoes by Crockett & Jones
        Photo: Crockett & Jones<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

        For shoes, go for a classic black, if you choose something bright, go for the whole shoe. Our model gentleman, Mr. James Bond, wear the Highbury model in Dying Can Wait, available from Crockett & Jones<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

         <\/p>\n\n\n\n

        To find out more about James Bond\u2019s one in \u2019No Time To Die\u2019, you can see the details here.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

        Of course, our logical choice for shopping is Clusier<\/a> (Le Club by Gentologie members have a discount<\/a>), where you\u2019ll find brands like Canali, Samuelsohn and Luigi Bianchi tuxedos and Eton shirts, while if you\u2019re looking for Tom Ford<\/a>, you\u2019ll find it at Holt Renfrew<\/a> or Harry Rosen<\/a> in Canada, where other countries have their own flagship store.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

        A true gentleman must own his tuxedo. We tell you why, how to find it and the ultimate accessories!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":51858,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"apple_news_api_created_at":"","apple_news_api_id":"","apple_news_api_modified_at":"","apple_news_api_revision":"","apple_news_api_share_url":"","apple_news_cover_media_provider":"image","apple_news_coverimage":0,"apple_news_coverimage_caption":"","apple_news_cover_video_id":0,"apple_news_cover_video_url":"","apple_news_cover_embedwebvideo_url":"","apple_news_is_hidden":"","apple_news_is_paid":"","apple_news_is_preview":"","apple_news_is_sponsored":"","apple_news_maturity_rating":"","apple_news_metadata":"\"\"","apple_news_pullquote":"","apple_news_pullquote_position":"middle","apple_news_slug":"","apple_news_sections":["https:\/\/news-api.apple.com\/sections\/f8fa0cd9-384d-4da5-ac33-6dba082ff809"],"apple_news_suppress_video_url":false,"apple_news_use_image_component":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[9521,11004,1621,9523],"tags":[8612,3682,10174,8168,7112,10173,10180,9255],"coauthors":[5548],"class_list":["post-51849","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-clothing","category-james-bond","category-style","category-tuxedo","tag-bowtie","tag-canali","tag-cummerbund","tag-eton","tag-luigi-bianchi","tag-samuelsohn","tag-suspenders","tag-tom-ford"],"apple_news_notices":[],"yoast_head":"\nThe 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