The decline of mechanical pocket watches in the early 1970s can be attributed to technological advancements that adapted their intricate mechanisms for wristwatches. Historical wristwatches rarely featured perpetual calendars, tourbillons, or minute repeaters. They were primarily valued for their timekeeping function rather than their complications, which today define the allure of Haute Horlogerie. Besides, many everyday objects started to display the time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Due to the mechanical watches\u2019 slight delay of a few seconds every month, they got momentarily sidelined by their more accurate quartz counterparts. The early 1980s marked a period of reinvention for wristwatches. By the mid-1980s, specifically 1983, manufacturers were adopting a completely new approach to the watch as a whole: the case, mechanism, and bracelet now formed a unified ensemble where originality, beauty, and exemplary quality blended seamlessly.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
At the same time, brands did not want to remain trapped in the past and aimed to project into the future, ensuring their place within modernity. From that point, technical and precious watchmaking evolved gradually, merging these two realms where style, technique, jewelry, and watchmaking became one. The object of desire was reimagined under historical forms inspired by early 20th-century cases. By looking back, these models became the inspiration for the future.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
A new era in watchmaking<\/b><\/h2>\n\n\n\n![\"The](\"https:\/\/gentologie.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/Vacheron-Constantin-Traditionnelle-tourbillon-chronographe-Collection-Excellence-Platine-Case-making.jpg\")
The case making of the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle tourbillon chronograph Collection Excellence Platine
Photo: Vacheron Constantin<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\nThus, a new wave of watchmaking began with the adaptation of historical models and new creations showcasing unique designs to demonstrate the creativity, knowledge, and expertise of various horological crafts, including watchmakers, dial makers, jewellers, enamellers, and engravers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
For example, in 1996, Cartier completely renewed its famous Tank watch, originally dating back to 1919. The addition of curves to its square case, integrated with the bracelet, recalls the watchmaker\u2019s jeweller past. These changes are easily observable in this prestigious company and others, thanks to the transformation of their forms. This new art, revisiting classic watches while highlighting the talents of various artisans, now includes complications and offers a marriage between elegance and craftsmanship.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The creation of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie <\/span><\/b><\/h2>\n\n\n\nIn the early 2000s, the notion of technical and precious Haute Horlogerie emerged. In 2005, this concept was solidified with the creation of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie<\/a> in Geneva. Supported by partner brands such as Audemars Piguet<\/a>, Breitling<\/a>, Bulgari<\/a>, Carl F. Bucherer<\/a>, Cartier<\/a>, Jaeger-LeCoultre<\/a>, Panerai<\/a>\u2014known for popularizing the 44 mm size of today\u2019s watches following their adaptation of models for the Italian navy in 1988\u2014Ulysse Nardin<\/a>, Vacheron-Constatin<\/a>, TAG Heuer<\/a>, and Van Cleef & Arpels<\/a>, this non-profit organization now serves as a reference and neutral point for all horological matters.<\/p>\n\n\n\nThe Complications<\/b><\/b><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
To begin with, a complication represents a function other than the display of hours and minutes in this technical domain. Over the next few lines, I will introduce you to some complications that have made Haute Horlogerie watches renowned.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Tourbillon Watches <\/span><\/b><\/b><\/h3>\n\n\n\n![\"Audermars](\"https:\/\/gentologie.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/Audermars-Piguet-Royal-Oak-Jumbo-Extra-Thin-Openworked.jpg\")
Audermars Piguet Royal Oak \u00ab Jumbo \u00bb Extra Thin Openworked
Photo: Audermars Piguet<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\nFor those unfamiliar with the tourbillon, it is a horological complication added to the escapement mechanism. It aims to improve the precision of mechanical watches by counteracting the disturbances of the resonator\u2019s isochronism due to Earth\u2019s gravity. This mechanism was invented by Swiss watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet, founder of the famous brand bearing his name<\/a>, in 1801.<\/p>\n\n\n\nThe first automatic tourbillon for wristwatches was created by Maurice Grimm and Andr\u00e9 Beyner for Audemars Piguet in 1986. It astonishes with its case thickness (2.5 mm) and its placement at 11 o\u2019clock on the dial. Consequently, this exceptional achievement revived one of horology\u2019s major inventions. Four years later, the duo designed the first central tourbillon for OMEGA<\/a>. Since then, this complication has continued to evolve, recently seen in the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon mentioned in this article<\/a>. Not to forget the Piaget’s<\/a> ultra-thin automatic tourbillon, the Emperador Coussin Tourbillon Automatic Extra-Thin, unveiled in 2010. With a thickness of 10.4 mm, this mythical object is the thinnest in the world.<\/p>\n\n\n\nDespite being less precise and more expensive to produce than quartz watches, these various alterations and improvements, including the gyrotourbillon, make this complication an increasingly sought after in today\u2019s mechanical watches and chronographs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
A new era of complications<\/b><\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"The](\"https:\/\/gentologie.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/OMEGA-Caliber-3861-Manual-winding-Co-Axial_Escapement.jpg\")
The OMEGA Caliber 3861 and its Co-Axial Escapement
Photo: OMEGA<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\nAs mentioned earlier, the tourbillon has been widely discussed in recent years, but it is the Patek Philippe<\/a> Caliber 89 that is now seen as the benchmark for portable mechanical watchmaking. Presented in 1989\u2014its name referencing this\u2014during the 150th<\/sup> anniversary of the renowned Swiss brand, it is the result of over nine years of research and development. With a diameter of 88.2 mm and a thickness of 41.07 mm, it houses no fewer than 1728 components animating its 33 functions. Representing the resurgence of horological craftsmanship, this watch surpasses many models released in the past century in terms of functionality. The Caliber 89 remains an inspiration for the Patek Philippe family and its competitors.<\/p>\n\n\n\nA few years later, in 1991, Blancpain<\/a> produced six wristwatches cementing the six main horological complications: the moon phase calendar, the perpetual calendar, the split-second chronograph, the minute repeater, the ultra-thin movement, and the tourbillon. For reference, the 1735 model combines all these complications into a single grand complication wristwatch with 740 elements.<\/p>\n\n\n\nThus, master watchmakers continuously refine their research, devising new solutions to overcome technical challenges. Whether to increase the mechanisms\u2019 autonomy, enhance their precision, or eliminate lubrication, they strive for mechanical perfection. For example, English master watchmaker George Daniels, on the OMEGA De Ville, found a way to eliminate component oiling with the coaxial escapement.<\/p>\n\n\n
\n![\"IWC's](\"https:\/\/gentologie.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/IWC-Pilots-Watch-UTC-Universal-Time-Coordinated-Caliber-A-30710-Reference-IW3251.jpg\")
IWC’s UTC (Universal Time Coordinated) Caliber A\/30710 Reference IW3251
Photo: IWC<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\nThis is just a glimpse of a few complications presented here. While their advancement greatly aids the mechanism of mechanical watches, they are seldom used in daily life. Consider A. Lange & S\u00f6hne’s<\/a> Lange 1, the first large date watch with two oversized windows, or Jaeger-LeCoultre\u2019s Reverso, enriched with all the great traditional complications, including world times and dual time zones. We should also mention IWC’s<\/a> UTC (Universal Time Coordinated) Caliber A\/30710 Reference IW3251 (above), which, in 1998, innovated by coordinating with universal time, allowing users to read different times and dates worldwide and change the time and date using just the crown\u2014a perfect solution for today\u2019s globetrotters.<\/p>\n\n\n\nSo, what\u2019s next (or your first) on your Haute Horlogerie watch list?<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Photo: Vacheron Constantin<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
Thus, a new wave of watchmaking began with the adaptation of historical models and new creations showcasing unique designs to demonstrate the creativity, knowledge, and expertise of various horological crafts, including watchmakers, dial makers, jewellers, enamellers, and engravers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
For example, in 1996, Cartier completely renewed its famous Tank watch, originally dating back to 1919. The addition of curves to its square case, integrated with the bracelet, recalls the watchmaker\u2019s jeweller past. These changes are easily observable in this prestigious company and others, thanks to the transformation of their forms. This new art, revisiting classic watches while highlighting the talents of various artisans, now includes complications and offers a marriage between elegance and craftsmanship.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The creation of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie <\/span><\/b><\/h2>\n\n\n\nIn the early 2000s, the notion of technical and precious Haute Horlogerie emerged. In 2005, this concept was solidified with the creation of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie<\/a> in Geneva. Supported by partner brands such as Audemars Piguet<\/a>, Breitling<\/a>, Bulgari<\/a>, Carl F. Bucherer<\/a>, Cartier<\/a>, Jaeger-LeCoultre<\/a>, Panerai<\/a>\u2014known for popularizing the 44 mm size of today\u2019s watches following their adaptation of models for the Italian navy in 1988\u2014Ulysse Nardin<\/a>, Vacheron-Constatin<\/a>, TAG Heuer<\/a>, and Van Cleef & Arpels<\/a>, this non-profit organization now serves as a reference and neutral point for all horological matters.<\/p>\n\n\n\nThe Complications<\/b><\/b><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
To begin with, a complication represents a function other than the display of hours and minutes in this technical domain. Over the next few lines, I will introduce you to some complications that have made Haute Horlogerie watches renowned.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Tourbillon Watches <\/span><\/b><\/b><\/h3>\n\n\n\nAudermars Piguet Royal Oak \u00ab Jumbo \u00bb Extra Thin Openworked
Photo: Audermars Piguet<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\nFor those unfamiliar with the tourbillon, it is a horological complication added to the escapement mechanism. It aims to improve the precision of mechanical watches by counteracting the disturbances of the resonator\u2019s isochronism due to Earth\u2019s gravity. This mechanism was invented by Swiss watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet, founder of the famous brand bearing his name<\/a>, in 1801.<\/p>\n\n\n\nThe first automatic tourbillon for wristwatches was created by Maurice Grimm and Andr\u00e9 Beyner for Audemars Piguet in 1986. It astonishes with its case thickness (2.5 mm) and its placement at 11 o\u2019clock on the dial. Consequently, this exceptional achievement revived one of horology\u2019s major inventions. Four years later, the duo designed the first central tourbillon for OMEGA<\/a>. Since then, this complication has continued to evolve, recently seen in the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon mentioned in this article<\/a>. Not to forget the Piaget’s<\/a> ultra-thin automatic tourbillon, the Emperador Coussin Tourbillon Automatic Extra-Thin, unveiled in 2010. With a thickness of 10.4 mm, this mythical object is the thinnest in the world.<\/p>\n\n\n\nDespite being less precise and more expensive to produce than quartz watches, these various alterations and improvements, including the gyrotourbillon, make this complication an increasingly sought after in today\u2019s mechanical watches and chronographs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
A new era of complications<\/b><\/p>\n\n\n\nThe OMEGA Caliber 3861 and its Co-Axial Escapement
Photo: OMEGA<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\nAs mentioned earlier, the tourbillon has been widely discussed in recent years, but it is the Patek Philippe<\/a> Caliber 89 that is now seen as the benchmark for portable mechanical watchmaking. Presented in 1989\u2014its name referencing this\u2014during the 150th<\/sup> anniversary of the renowned Swiss brand, it is the result of over nine years of research and development. With a diameter of 88.2 mm and a thickness of 41.07 mm, it houses no fewer than 1728 components animating its 33 functions. Representing the resurgence of horological craftsmanship, this watch surpasses many models released in the past century in terms of functionality. The Caliber 89 remains an inspiration for the Patek Philippe family and its competitors.<\/p>\n\n\n\nA few years later, in 1991, Blancpain<\/a> produced six wristwatches cementing the six main horological complications: the moon phase calendar, the perpetual calendar, the split-second chronograph, the minute repeater, the ultra-thin movement, and the tourbillon. For reference, the 1735 model combines all these complications into a single grand complication wristwatch with 740 elements.<\/p>\n\n\n\nThus, master watchmakers continuously refine their research, devising new solutions to overcome technical challenges. Whether to increase the mechanisms\u2019 autonomy, enhance their precision, or eliminate lubrication, they strive for mechanical perfection. For example, English master watchmaker George Daniels, on the OMEGA De Ville, found a way to eliminate component oiling with the coaxial escapement.<\/p>\n\n\n
\nIWC’s UTC (Universal Time Coordinated) Caliber A\/30710 Reference IW3251
Photo: IWC<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\nThis is just a glimpse of a few complications presented here. While their advancement greatly aids the mechanism of mechanical watches, they are seldom used in daily life. Consider A. Lange & S\u00f6hne’s<\/a> Lange 1, the first large date watch with two oversized windows, or Jaeger-LeCoultre\u2019s Reverso, enriched with all the great traditional complications, including world times and dual time zones. We should also mention IWC’s<\/a> UTC (Universal Time Coordinated) Caliber A\/30710 Reference IW3251 (above), which, in 1998, innovated by coordinating with universal time, allowing users to read different times and dates worldwide and change the time and date using just the crown\u2014a perfect solution for today\u2019s globetrotters.<\/p>\n\n\n\nSo, what\u2019s next (or your first) on your Haute Horlogerie watch list?<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The Complications<\/b><\/b><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
To begin with, a complication represents a function other than the display of hours and minutes in this technical domain. Over the next few lines, I will introduce you to some complications that have made Haute Horlogerie watches renowned.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Tourbillon Watches <\/span><\/b><\/b><\/h3>\n\n\n\nAudermars Piguet Royal Oak \u00ab Jumbo \u00bb Extra Thin Openworked
Photo: Audermars Piguet<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\nFor those unfamiliar with the tourbillon, it is a horological complication added to the escapement mechanism. It aims to improve the precision of mechanical watches by counteracting the disturbances of the resonator\u2019s isochronism due to Earth\u2019s gravity. This mechanism was invented by Swiss watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet, founder of the famous brand bearing his name<\/a>, in 1801.<\/p>\n\n\n\nThe first automatic tourbillon for wristwatches was created by Maurice Grimm and Andr\u00e9 Beyner for Audemars Piguet in 1986. It astonishes with its case thickness (2.5 mm) and its placement at 11 o\u2019clock on the dial. Consequently, this exceptional achievement revived one of horology\u2019s major inventions. Four years later, the duo designed the first central tourbillon for OMEGA<\/a>. Since then, this complication has continued to evolve, recently seen in the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon mentioned in this article<\/a>. Not to forget the Piaget’s<\/a> ultra-thin automatic tourbillon, the Emperador Coussin Tourbillon Automatic Extra-Thin, unveiled in 2010. With a thickness of 10.4 mm, this mythical object is the thinnest in the world.<\/p>\n\n\n\nDespite being less precise and more expensive to produce than quartz watches, these various alterations and improvements, including the gyrotourbillon, make this complication an increasingly sought after in today\u2019s mechanical watches and chronographs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
A new era of complications<\/b><\/p>\n\n\n\nThe OMEGA Caliber 3861 and its Co-Axial Escapement
Photo: OMEGA<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\nAs mentioned earlier, the tourbillon has been widely discussed in recent years, but it is the Patek Philippe<\/a> Caliber 89 that is now seen as the benchmark for portable mechanical watchmaking. Presented in 1989\u2014its name referencing this\u2014during the 150th<\/sup> anniversary of the renowned Swiss brand, it is the result of over nine years of research and development. With a diameter of 88.2 mm and a thickness of 41.07 mm, it houses no fewer than 1728 components animating its 33 functions. Representing the resurgence of horological craftsmanship, this watch surpasses many models released in the past century in terms of functionality. The Caliber 89 remains an inspiration for the Patek Philippe family and its competitors.<\/p>\n\n\n\nA few years later, in 1991, Blancpain<\/a> produced six wristwatches cementing the six main horological complications: the moon phase calendar, the perpetual calendar, the split-second chronograph, the minute repeater, the ultra-thin movement, and the tourbillon. For reference, the 1735 model combines all these complications into a single grand complication wristwatch with 740 elements.<\/p>\n\n\n\nThus, master watchmakers continuously refine their research, devising new solutions to overcome technical challenges. Whether to increase the mechanisms\u2019 autonomy, enhance their precision, or eliminate lubrication, they strive for mechanical perfection. For example, English master watchmaker George Daniels, on the OMEGA De Ville, found a way to eliminate component oiling with the coaxial escapement.<\/p>\n\n\n
\nIWC’s UTC (Universal Time Coordinated) Caliber A\/30710 Reference IW3251
Photo: IWC<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\nThis is just a glimpse of a few complications presented here. While their advancement greatly aids the mechanism of mechanical watches, they are seldom used in daily life. Consider A. Lange & S\u00f6hne’s<\/a> Lange 1, the first large date watch with two oversized windows, or Jaeger-LeCoultre\u2019s Reverso, enriched with all the great traditional complications, including world times and dual time zones. We should also mention IWC’s<\/a> UTC (Universal Time Coordinated) Caliber A\/30710 Reference IW3251 (above), which, in 1998, innovated by coordinating with universal time, allowing users to read different times and dates worldwide and change the time and date using just the crown\u2014a perfect solution for today\u2019s globetrotters.<\/p>\n\n\n\nSo, what\u2019s next (or your first) on your Haute Horlogerie watch list?<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Photo: Audermars Piguet<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
For those unfamiliar with the tourbillon, it is a horological complication added to the escapement mechanism. It aims to improve the precision of mechanical watches by counteracting the disturbances of the resonator\u2019s isochronism due to Earth\u2019s gravity. This mechanism was invented by Swiss watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet, founder of the famous brand bearing his name<\/a>, in 1801.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The first automatic tourbillon for wristwatches was created by Maurice Grimm and Andr\u00e9 Beyner for Audemars Piguet in 1986. It astonishes with its case thickness (2.5 mm) and its placement at 11 o\u2019clock on the dial. Consequently, this exceptional achievement revived one of horology\u2019s major inventions. Four years later, the duo designed the first central tourbillon for OMEGA<\/a>. Since then, this complication has continued to evolve, recently seen in the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon mentioned in this article<\/a>. Not to forget the Piaget’s<\/a> ultra-thin automatic tourbillon, the Emperador Coussin Tourbillon Automatic Extra-Thin, unveiled in 2010. With a thickness of 10.4 mm, this mythical object is the thinnest in the world.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Despite being less precise and more expensive to produce than quartz watches, these various alterations and improvements, including the gyrotourbillon, make this complication an increasingly sought after in today\u2019s mechanical watches and chronographs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n A new era of complications<\/b><\/p>\n\n\n As mentioned earlier, the tourbillon has been widely discussed in recent years, but it is the Patek Philippe<\/a> Caliber 89 that is now seen as the benchmark for portable mechanical watchmaking. Presented in 1989\u2014its name referencing this\u2014during the 150th<\/sup> anniversary of the renowned Swiss brand, it is the result of over nine years of research and development. With a diameter of 88.2 mm and a thickness of 41.07 mm, it houses no fewer than 1728 components animating its 33 functions. Representing the resurgence of horological craftsmanship, this watch surpasses many models released in the past century in terms of functionality. The Caliber 89 remains an inspiration for the Patek Philippe family and its competitors.<\/p>\n\n\n\n A few years later, in 1991, Blancpain<\/a> produced six wristwatches cementing the six main horological complications: the moon phase calendar, the perpetual calendar, the split-second chronograph, the minute repeater, the ultra-thin movement, and the tourbillon. For reference, the 1735 model combines all these complications into a single grand complication wristwatch with 740 elements.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Thus, master watchmakers continuously refine their research, devising new solutions to overcome technical challenges. Whether to increase the mechanisms\u2019 autonomy, enhance their precision, or eliminate lubrication, they strive for mechanical perfection. For example, English master watchmaker George Daniels, on the OMEGA De Ville, found a way to eliminate component oiling with the coaxial escapement.<\/p>\n\n\n This is just a glimpse of a few complications presented here. While their advancement greatly aids the mechanism of mechanical watches, they are seldom used in daily life. Consider A. Lange & S\u00f6hne’s<\/a> Lange 1, the first large date watch with two oversized windows, or Jaeger-LeCoultre\u2019s Reverso, enriched with all the great traditional complications, including world times and dual time zones. We should also mention IWC’s<\/a> UTC (Universal Time Coordinated) Caliber A\/30710 Reference IW3251 (above), which, in 1998, innovated by coordinating with universal time, allowing users to read different times and dates worldwide and change the time and date using just the crown\u2014a perfect solution for today\u2019s globetrotters.<\/p>\n\n\n\n So, what\u2019s next (or your first) on your Haute Horlogerie watch list?<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Photo: OMEGA<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
Photo: IWC<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n